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Perhaps it isn’t terribly surprising that the geeky folks at oDDity have decided to make something completely different from their cohorts: it’s in their name, after all. They have committed to making unusual vintages, and have been living up to that promise with every vintage they’ve made thus far. So when I heard last crush season that they were going to make a rosé from something completely different, I got really excited. When I first tasted the 2016 Idiopinkracy… I fell in love instantly.
The Wine: Sourced from Deep Sky Vineyards down on the Willcox Bench in the Willcox AVA, the 2016 Idiopinkracy is made from 100% Counoise, an obscure hipster grape from the Southern Rhone Valley that has its share of die-hard fans. (We explored a bit of the history and viticulture of this grape in a few previous examinations, so I won’t repeat all of that information again). This whole-cluster press rosé was fermented in Stainless Steel. After fermentation, the wine was aged in a neutral barrel of American oak, which I think granted this wine a great deal of its unique character. Malolactic fermentation was inhibited. This wine is a copper-salmon shade of color.
The Nose: Bright notes of juicy watermelon, bubble gum, apricot, mint, and vanilla, open up the nose, intermingling with more subtle notes of nutmeg, white flowers, limestone dust, sagebrush, and cardamon.
The Palate: This rosé totally tastes to me like the Platonic ideal of bubble gum (or Juicy Fruit), intermingling with a slight bit of mint, strawberry, watermelon, and refreshing limestone minerality along with a gripping acidity and subtle hints of vanilla limestone, and caramel on a finish that lasts for 45 seconds. As the wine opens, additional notes of grapefruit, apricot, and cardamon emerge on the palate.
The Pairing: The Idiopinkracy is going to pair fantastically with a smoked brisket featuring a simple dry rub; the acidity would just cut straight through the fat. For a vegetarian or vegan pairing, a super-spicy Chili with nopales, onion, and, of course, the fake meat stuff.
Impressions: This, I admit, is my first Counoise rosé, and I dig it. Out of the rosé vintages I’ve been drinking this month, this is among my top three, for sure. The unique flavor profile, combined with bracing acidity makes this a top contender. Drink this now, as the monsoon starts to break.
Personified, the Idiopinkracy reminds me of a pinup model lounging on a couch; she lays on her back, heels in the air, innocently blowing bubblegum bubbles.
Only 24 cases of this wine were produced, and when I last talked to Bree (on the night of June 24th) there were only 8 cases left… so grab it before it’s gone. You can find it at Four-Eight Wineworks, at $30 a bottle.